Chile's Route 7 — the Carretera Austral — stretches 1,240 kilometres from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins through some of the least-touched terrain on earth. The entire road is worth doing. But these seven stops are worth slowing down for.
1. Parque Pumalín — the first wild night
After the Hornopirén ferry crossing, Parque Pumalín is the first true wilderness of the Carretera. Ancient alerce trees (some over 3,000 years old), black-sand beaches and almost no other travellers. Camp at Camping Caleta Gonzalo right off the ferry and walk the Sendero Volcán Chaitén trail the next morning.
2. Puyuhuapi and the hanging glacier
The village of Puyuhuapi was founded by German settlers in 1935 and retains a quiet, end-of-the-world charm. From here you can take a boat to the Ventisquero Colgante — the hanging glacier in Queulat National Park. It's the single most dramatic sight on the Carretera.
3. La Junta — the hidden crossroads
La Junta is a small town at the meeting of two rivers and a good place to stock up on fuel and supplies. But the real reason to stop is the fly fishing. The Río Palena here is world-class, and several local guides offer day trips.
4. Puerto Río Tranquilo — the Marble Caves
You'll see the signs for the Marble Caves (Capillas de Mármol) from the road. Take a 30-minute boat trip out to them in the morning when the light makes the turquoise water shimmer inside the caves. One of the most otherworldly experiences in Chile.
5. Cochrane — the last real town
Cochrane feels like the edge of the world — and south of here, it kind of is. Stock up on fuel (there's nothing for the next 230km to Villa O'Higgins), buy fresh bread from the bakery on the main square and walk to the mirador overlooking town before you leave.
6. Lago Cochrane — crystalline and empty
Just south of town, Lago Cochrane (also called Lago Pueyrredón on the Argentine side) is one of the clearest lakes in the world. On a calm day the reflections are mirror-perfect. There are free campsites on the shore and almost nobody there.
7. Villa O'Higgins — the end of the road
The road literally ends here. A small village of 500 people at the southern terminus of the Carretera. From here you can take a boat across Lago O'Higgins to Argentina — or just sit at the end of the world and feel what that means.
Tip
The Carretera requires at least 10 days to do properly. Budget 14 if you want to stop at all seven of these places without rushing.
